A simple foundation for a bathhouse - We build a bathhouse or sauna

For extra strength, it is recommended to install a frame made of reinforcing bars laid along and across.

Building the foundation of the slab type

For a slab foundation, first of all, it is necessary to create a slab of reinforced concrete with a thickness of about 30 cm, corresponding to the perimeter of the bathhouse under construction.

In case the clay soil is on the site, it should be fixed with sand and gravel. To do this, marking the perimeter of the future building, dig a pit 1.5 m deep, extract clay and fill the place with gravel or sand, carefully tamping the material. If the soil is sandy, then it is enough to remove only the topsoil and replace it with sand. Level the surface with a level - there should be no slopes. Mark the future construction, strictly adhering to the perpendicularity of the sides.

The next step is the installation of formwork. Since you are making a monolithic slab, the requirements for the rigidity of the formwork design will be higher than when installing a strip foundation, since the load is much higher. Therefore, during installation, it will not be superfluous to use additional supports.

Stage Three: Waterproofing. As such, it is convenient to use a dense plastic film. Before laying it, it is necessary to provide surfaces with sufficient density. To do this, sprinkle cement on the sand inside the formwork at the rate of 50 kg per 10 square meters, mix thoroughly with a rake to a shallow depth (4 cm will be enough) and pour over water. After hardening, put the film.

Next, prepare the fittings. A suitable option for strength and weight would be bars with a diameter of 14 mm. The length of the valve must be shorter than the installation site by 10 cm: this will protect the rods from contact with the environment and corrosion. The fittings should be laid with a lattice, providing a cage of 15-20 cm in size, and twisted with a steel wire with a diameter of about 2 mm, or nylon ties. There should be two such grids, one above the other. Leave a distance of 20 cm between the lower and upper, while lowering the lower one above the waterproofing layer by 5 cm. During concreting, the upper grille should be recessed by 5 cm. Accordingly, the height of the slab will be 30 cm.

Practical advice to topics. who wants to build a bath with their own hands: what type of foundation to choose based on the type of soil on the site, how to properly build the foundation.

DIY foundation for a bath: Step-by-step instructions

To build a bathhouse is the first desire of most owners of private houses. But before construction, questions arise: from what material to build, what foundation should be made, etc. If you decide to mount the foundation for the bath yourself, this article will become an assistant and tell you in detail how to do it right.

Types of foundations under the bath

The bathhouse is a lightweight design, but there are two-story buildings, you need to choose the foundation individually for each building, starting from the indicators:

1. Massive bath
2. The specifics of surveying in the construction area.
3. The material from which the bath will be collected.

• Monolithic. This is mounted on floating soil with high-lying hot water (groundwater).
• Column or pile screw. It is used for wooden baths made of timber or logs suitable for sandy soil.
• Tape. The most common option, used on soil with a deep bed of GW.
• Mixed type (tape + pile). They are rarely used for baths, suitable for soils with quicksand, high bedding.

Depending on the material used, the foundation of the bathhouse may consist of:

• made of brick
• concrete
• from blocks
• jellied or screw piles.

The foundation for the bath is in most cases lightweight, then the installation is done by hand.Of course, there are companies engaged in the construction of turnkey baths at a price of 10,000 m2, but in order to save money, it is easier to do the work yourself. How to make a foundation for a bath of various types, we will talk below.

DIY installation of the base under the bath

Each of the listed types of foundation for a bath has its own characteristics, they need to be considered separately. The only thing that unites the work is the choice of a place for construction, the preparation of a project plan.

How to choose the right place for a bath bookmark

The choice of place for the construction of the bath should be taken seriously. The design is not built for one year, it should be located correctly. There are several types of location of the bathhouse: an extension to the main house, a separate bathhouse. If the bathhouse is an extension to a residential building, the foundation to it is carried out similarly to the main one with reference. Do not make screw piles when the main house is on a strip foundation.

A freestanding bathhouse means choosing a place away from trees and other plantings. The bath will be heated, smoke, sparks are not useful to fruit trees.

Why is a project needed?

Do-it-yourself bath construction requires prior planning. Regardless of whether the building will be registered in the future or not. The easiest way to use a standard project, there are many of them can be found on the network. Photos are attached to any of the standard projects. Photos are needed to understand and present the construction in more detail.

Planning also includes an estimate where all costs and necessary material are calculated in order to start building the foundation under the bathhouse with your own hands.

Installation of a strip foundation

The strip foundation for the construction of a bath with your own hands can be done in several ways. The future platform is preliminarily marked on the site, a trench is dug through it to a depth of more than 50 cm, 4-5 cm wider than the expected masonry of brick or timber. It is better to dig a trench in summer when groundwater has the lowest occurrence level. The progress of subsequent work depends on the option selected:

1. A pillow is made of gravel and coarse sand. Each layer is rammed, should have a thickness of 15 cm. You can use the finished mixture of ASG, but it costs more. For better compaction, sand is recommended to be shed with water. A liquid cement mortar is made (it should resemble sour cream), spilled on a sand pad. A brick or rubble stone is mounted on the base. It will be a brick base mounted with a brick. Between every second row, a masonry net is laid. Waterproofing roofing material (2 layers).
2. Another way starts with filling the pillow from ASG to half, rammed in exactly the same way as in the first case. It is important that the surface of the pillow is aligned. The next step is laid in one row brick. After they mount the formwork from boards and timber 40x40 mm. The height of the formwork is more than 40 cm. Concrete based on moisture-resistant cement is poured into it.
3. The method is used for dense soil. The formwork is installed from a dense material and timber, for example slate. Lay slate sheets need overlapping 8-10 cm for tight formwork. Sand is poured into the formwork, which is tamped. The next layer is covered with gravel on a half-dug trench. The seal design is flooded. After they begin to pour concrete. The concrete layer should be no more than 150 mm. Concrete should be poured before the appearance of a cement slurry on the surface.

For uniform drying, the foundation is covered with sawdust, burlap on top, even a PVC film is suitable. Once in essence, the structure is unwound and watered again with water. So, it should stand under isolation for three days. Then the foundation under the bathhouse is opened, it is allowed to dry completely, settle down. The minimum drying period is 2-3 days. After it can be covered with waterproofing, for example, roofing material in two layers.

For the construction of the foundation for a strip-type bathhouse, several factors must be taken into account:

1. The height of the fill above the ground should be 20–40 cm. It depends on the level of HS and the material from which the walls are assembled, so for a bath from a beam, the height of the base should be greater, since the tree does not like moisture.
2. Silicate brick is not suitable for the construction of the foundation, over time it is destroyed by moisture. Red ceramic is made at high temperatures and humidity is not afraid of him.
3. The tape has a width of 25-50 cm and depends on the material from which they will build a bath.
4. Concrete can be purchased ready-made, but it will be cheaper to make it yourself.

• sand (preferably coarse-grained, it is pre-cleaned) 5% moisture - 1150 kg,
• Portland cement (moisture resistant) - 400-500 kg,
• crushed stone (small or medium) - 1800-200 kg,
• water - 170-175 l

You can also calculate the amount of concrete on the foundation of the bath yourself. For example, a strip foundation with a height of 0.3 m and a length of 19 m contains 0.3x0.3x19 = 1.71 m3. Similarly, you can calculate any volume. But it is necessary to additionally take into account that a foundation is also needed for the stove, therefore, a supply of 0.3 m3 must be added to the resulting volume.

Installation of the column foundation

The simplest type of foundation for a bath of timber, chopped or logs. A good option for any type of soil, especially in hilly areas.

The design consists of pillars, which are located at the corners of the future bath, under all the bearing walls. The distance between the posts is a maximum of 2 m.

It is not difficult to make a column foundation with your own hands, you can use it:

• wooden or metal, asbestos pillars,
• brick posts laid out,
• flooded piles
• screw posts.

An inexpensive option is wooden poles, but they must be dried and treated with tar or an antiseptic of deep penetration, such as Senezh, before use. For a columnar foundation made of wood, it is better to use larch or aspen, as these wood species are not afraid of water and get wet, they only become stronger. Set in pre-drilled holes where sand or ASG is poured, fixed with concrete pouring.

Brick columns are the most time-consuming type of foundation with your own hands for a bath. But making an effort with this work can be done. A similar circuit can be seen in the figure.

The location of the posts is marked, the top layer of soil is removed and a hole is dug, 10-20 cm wider than the future pillars in diameter. A sand cushion of at least 15 cm is laid. A column of bricks in two rows is mounted on top.

Do-it-yourself concrete piles are mounted most often, since the work, although laborious, does not require special skill. Drill wells with a depth of at least 1.5 m and a diameter of at least 250 mm. In the holes lay the connected frames from the reinforcement. They are knitted in advance from reinforced rods of 3 pieces, short connecting and knitting wires. The structure is poured with concrete. A brick column is laid on top of the pile.

You can simplify this design by taking an asbestos pipe with a cross section of 200 mm and install them in the wells. Concrete is poured into the pipe. The gap between the pipe wall and the well is filled with clay or gravel and rammed.

Concrete should be poured into the pipe gradually. The first time the filling is carried out at ⅓, since after that the pipes will slightly raise. The second stage is filled with another ⅓ part and the iron reinforcement is inserted inside. Only after that the rest is poured. Such a foundation dries completely in 5-7 days.

Another option for pillars is screw piles. They are sold prefabricated and have blades. They are screwed into the ground with the help of a bar. The only negative is that it is impossible to do the work alone with your own hands. It can be screwed to various depths, which is good for uneven surfaces.

Installation of a monolithic foundation under the bath

The type of foundation is used for any soil, but most often if there is a swimmer.The design is expensive, but the pressure on the soil is evenly distributed and the bath does not warp over time. There is no need to install a separate pillow and foundation under the stove. The structure is either poured with concrete on a mounted frame made of reinforcement, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used.

Do-it-yourself installation of a monolithic foundation for a bathhouse is carried out in stages:

1. Digging a trench to the width of the foundation and a depth of 80-60 cm.
2. A pillow of sand and gravel 15 cm is poured at the bottom.
3. Waterproofing, for example, roofing material is reinforced. Layers can be 2-3, the main thing is that there are no open areas, overlapping 10-15 cm.
4. Then the formwork and reinforced encircling are done, which are again poured with concrete.
5. It is important to think about where to drain and install the pipe after solidification before pouring, it will be more difficult to do this.

Only the owner can choose the right foundation option. It is necessary to build on this moment from one's strengths and material capabilities.

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Do-it-yourself ribbon foundation for a bath, step by step instructions

An integral part of any building, including a bath, is the foundation. The principle of pouring the foundation is no different from laying the foundation for a residential building. The category of the foundation for the bath is determined based on the following factors:

1. The load on the land. In most cases, the bathhouse is an oversized building. Naturally, the load from its design will be less, and this means that there is no need to lay too massive a foundation.
2. Features of the soil. The soil beneath the building may be heaving, or slightly foul. The groundwater level may be deep, or lie close to the surface of the ground. The soil is sandy, clayey, chernozem, and so on. Each of them contributes to a certain coefficient of shrinkage of the building. This should be taken into account when determining which foundation to fill.

Before you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for filling the foundation for a bath with your own hands, you need to consider the features of the main types of substrates that are used in this case.

Phased work

It was time to do the foundation work under the bathhouse with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions describe the following work:

1. Choice of a place for filling.
2. Site preparation.
3. Digging a trench.
4. Concrete works.

Before starting the preparatory work, it is necessary to have on hand a project for the future bath. This is necessary in order to accurately determine what size the foundation should be, even if all the work will be done on their own (without using the services of the construction team).

The bathhouse can be a separate one, or an extension to the main building. Wooden arbors cannot be placed near it (a spark can cause them to ignite). The building should stand at a distance from fruit trees (smoke will harm their branches, foliage and fruits). Compliance with this rule ensures fire safety during the operation of the building.

If the building design allows you to build it near the house, then the foundations of both buildings should be identical. In the case of a separate bath, its foundation can be of any structure (tape, slab, etc.).

The next stage is the preparation of the site for earthworks. If a tree grew in the place where the building will be located, be sure to remove the entire root system so that it does not grow inside the building, or does not destroy its base. Useful soil can be removed beforehand. It can be used for backfilling in flower beds, or for planning lawns. During concrete work, cement slurry can damage the fertile soil layer. Therefore, they should be carried out as close as possible to the building itself (ideally, inside the future room).

Earthwork is a very important preparatory process before filling the foundation with your own hands. At this stage, it is necessary to know the depth and width of the future foundation.In most cases, a shallow tape monolith is sufficient.

Foundation trench

The walls of the trench will serve as the formwork. Therefore, they should be as even as possible (in order to avoid overspending of the material). During the execution of the work, the land can be thrown inside the future building. This will make it easier to level and level the floor. One of the most important elements of the foundation of any building is bedding. Sand is mainly used for this.

It should be well compacted (by a vibrating plate, or a vibro-paw). If the terrain is characterized by a high level of groundwater, then at this stage it is necessary to take care of waterproofing. In the old days, under the tape foundations, a layer of clay was poured and strongly compacted. Then a small layer of liquid clay was poured. After she stood, they carried out concrete work. This is the cheapest waterproofing option. But today, inexpensive materials are on sale that are ideal for protecting the base of a building from groundwater.

The final stage of the preparatory work is the installation of formwork for the strip foundation, or basement. For convenience in pouring the monolith, its height should correspond to the level of the future foundation for the bath.

Each type of foundation requires its own procedures. Therefore, further in a step-by-step instruction for pouring the foundation of the bathhouse, each type of foundation will be described separately with its own hands.

The concrete grade for such work should be no less than M200 (220 liters of water, 324 kilograms of cement grade 400/500, 1296 kg. Sand, and 1296 kilograms of crushed stone of fraction 10 are taken per cubic meter of the mixture). It is imperative to reinforce the monolith layer so that it is stronger. For this, fittings with a diameter of one centimeter are enough.

The strip foundation is used on dense ground. If the earth is not prone to heaving, such a foundation will be enough to withstand the construction of the building. Choosing this method, you need to consider that its use is permissible only on relatively flat areas. The depth of the trench should be 20, 40, or 60 centimeters. You can dig it out yourself without using an excavator. At the bottom of the trench, a bed of sand is made, compacted. Its thickness is 20 centimeters.

Then the frame of the reinforcement is connected. It must be placed on small stones so that after pouring it is completely in the monolith. After the waterproofing has been laid, the armored belt and formwork are mounted, concrete can be poured. To do the work yourself, the mortar is prepared in the following proportion: two buckets of sand are taken on a bucket of cement, and three buckets of gravel.

The tape version must be firmly tied with rods. At the corners, a piece of reinforcement should be bent in half, and not bandaged with another rod. The strength of the monolith will depend on this.

Unlike tape monolith, this type of base is easier to do with your own hands. For this, during the preparatory phase, a shallow trench breaks out (this will be the bottom of the basement). Then a 1.3 meter deep well is drilled. At its bottom, sand is poured (thickness 30 centimeters), and compacted. After that, the frame from the reinforcement is connected, and placed in the well.

Do not immediately fill the entire cavity of the well, otherwise voids will form in the concrete at this depth. To avoid such difficulties, concrete should be poured gradually followed by compaction with a vibrating finger. This support should be left to harden for about a week. After this, the columns can be connected to each other, installing bars, or channels. If the support is unevenly poured, you must not try to pull it out so that it can be installed correctly later. To align the support, it is necessary to cut off the upper part of the column, bringing it under the level.

Such a base for a bath is used in the case of a high level of groundwater, or in the presence of floaters. During the preparatory work, the entire area where the building will stand is cleared.The thickness of the soil corresponding to the thickness of the monolithic slab is removed. At the bottom of the trough, sand is poured and compacted. Then the waterproofing film is lined.

After that, the frame of the reinforcement is connected. To make it easier to do this work with your own hands, at first two nets are knitted with a cell of 30-40 centimeters. The first is placed on supports (so that it does not lie on the sand) at the bottom of the pit. The second grid is mounted above it at a distance of 15 centimeters using reinforcing bars. Fix these elements with a flexible knitting wire. Watch the video how to make a slab foundation for a bathhouse.

After performing such work, the entire plane is poured with concrete. A feature of such a foundation is that the weight of the building is distributed over the entire land. Therefore, it does not sag, even if the bath is built on unsteady soils.

Regardless of the type of foundation, whether tape, slab or any other - before pouring the monolith across the structure, you need to place a plastic pipe filled with sand. This mortgage will allow to bring sanitary communications into the building of the bathhouse.

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Preparing for the construction of the bath

Before the time when the bath will be suitable for use, a lot of time will pass. The most time-consuming is the foundation stage. It takes from 3 months to a year.

The main stages of construction:

1. Development of a drawing of the structure and layout on the site.
2. Procurement of materials and preparation of tools.
3. Foundation construction.
4. The construction of walls, the installation of windows, doors, stoves.
5. Roofing.
6. Interior decoration of the bath.

The foundation, as the basis of the future construction, requires a responsible approach to the selection of the site, materials and quality of construction work.

What type of foundation to choose

Depending on the type of soil on the site, a decision is made about which foundation to erect, at what depth to deepen.

The main types of foundations for the bath:

• pile - used on uneven surfaces with a large difference in height, when there is a danger of flooding,
• tape - the most common type used on flat areas and on most types of soils,
• tiled - suitable for heaving soils, wetlands.

Information about what kind of soil is present on the site for the construction of the bath is known through geodetic studies. Or dig a hole with a depth below the freezing point (about 2-2.5 m) and determine the soil composition from the layers.

What to make the foundation of the bath

The strip foundation, as the most common type of base, can be:

A monolithic structure based on reinforcing mesh and concrete is the most durable, withstands high loads. Block and brick gives savings of up to 20%, but is not suitable for construction on heaving soils.

On soils where sand and clay predominate, install a tiled foundation. This will help to avoid deformation of the walls and roof of the bath due to natural swelling of the soil.

For the construction of the strip foundation you will need:

• concrete mixture of water, cement, river sand, gravel,
• granite crushed stone of 10-20 mm fraction, brand not lower than 400,
• fittings,
• wire,
• formwork material - wooden boards, chipboard,
• nails
• roofing material or PET film,
• pipes for perfumes and drains,
• sand and fine gravel for a pillow,
• old metal buckets, beams, pipes, stones, pieces of concrete - to save materials and strengthen the foundation.

Step-by-step instruction: strip foundation for a bath

The main stages of work in the construction of the foundation for the bath:

1. Preparation of the site for the bath. Markup.
2. Digging a trench. Laying pillows.
3. Formwork and trench reinforcement.
4. Concrete pouring.
5. The final stage of work: dismantling the formwork and sprinkling the foundation with soil.

Preparation of the site for the bath

Remove from the site that is intended for the construction of the bath, garbage, dry grass and leaves.If trees and shrubs grew here, remove the roots completely.

If the platform is uneven, you will need to fill the pits or cut off the protruding parts. On a site with a significant difference in elevations, a pile foundation is mainly installed. With a slight difference in height, the base is made according to the level in the horizontal plane.

Fertile soil with grass and roots is removed from the foundation site. Usually, 10-15 cm of the topsoil is removed for this. At the same time, from all sides the land is cleared another 0.5-1 m. So, the site will be slightly larger than the design size of the foundation.

Preparing the trench for the bath

Mark the future foundation. To do this, drive in metal rods at the 4 corners of the future bath. Pull the kapron thread around the perimeter, output the level horizontally, fix it. Measure the estimated width of the foundation and drive into the inner corners of another 4 rods. Pull the thread, bring the level, lock. Check the correct installation of the rods and the tension of the cord: measure the diagonals. If the angles are brought out at 90 degrees, the diagonals will be the same in length.

Dig a trench, focusing on the thread. Trench depth: + 20 ... 30 cm to the freezing depth of the soil (deep foundation), up to 60 cm (shallow). The bottom is leveled using a level.

Lay a pillow at the bottom of the finished trench. To do this, pour fine sand evenly with a layer of a thickness of 15-20 cm. Flatten and pour. Compact wet sand using a rammer. This work can be done using a heavy bar with handles.

Formwork and foundation reinforcement

Before installing the formwork at the bottom of the trench, lay a layer of broken brick, coarse gravel on the sand. This is done so that the metal frame of the foundation does not touch the pillow. Sand is a porous, well-retaining and moisture-giving building material. Therefore, with constant interaction, the reinforcement rots and collapses.

Prepare the formwork: make boards of unedged boards and chipboard, knock down with nails, connect with screws, connect with wire. The height of the frame is 45 cm above the level of the trench.

Foundation formwork is a temporary framework for liquid concrete. Therefore, fasten the boards in such a way that, without prejudice to the base, remove them after the mortar has set.

For reinforcement, use metal rods and wire to tie them together. Welding in this case is not the best solution, since corrosion will primarily affect welded surfaces.

Frame reinforcement should be uniform. A common laying option is two rods along the trench and the installation of vertical metal pins on both sides of the trench every 20-30 cm. At the intersections of the reinforcement, a knot of wire is made. Finish the metal frame with two rods mounted on the vertical pins at the top. To save on concrete and strengthen the foundation, any metal products are added to the frame: old buckets, agricultural tools, channels, wire residues, scrap.

It is impossible to use non-ferrous metals, products containing lead, radioactive substances in the foundation.

For pouring the foundation, a mixture of sand, cement, gravel, water is prepared. Proportions of concrete:

• 1 part sand
• 1 part cement
• 1.5 parts of gravel
• the mass of water is at least 60% of the total mixture.

• cement grade not lower than M-200 - in warm weather,
• not lower than M-400 - in the cold.

In summer, the water is cooled in the heat so that the concrete hardens evenly. On the contrary, in the cold season, the mixture for pouring the foundation is prepared in warm water.

Concrete mixture is poured directly into the metal frame. In order to evenly distribute the liquid mass in the formwork and remove air bubbles, periodically make holes with a shovel, crowbar, metal rods. Instead, special vibrators are often used. The less air remains inside the foundation, the stronger and more reliable the base of the bath will be.

Land, branches, organic waste, and other chemicals are not allowed to enter the concrete mixture.

Concrete shrinkage occurs within 3-12 months. It depends on weather conditions, the consistency of the mixture, the brand of cement, the quality of the fill. After preliminary solidification of the foundation, the formwork is removed (after 3-7 days).

The cavities in the trench left over from the wooden shields are covered with rubble and soil. For drainage of groundwater, a drainage is arranged: special perforated pipes are laid to the bottom along the perimeter of the foundation and brought to the site.

After creating a reliable foundation within 7-30 days, an experienced builder will finish the bath and turn it over. The construction of walls, roofs, interior decoration, the installation of windows, doors, stoves - these stages occur much faster than pouring the foundation. However, each of them requires certain skills and the attraction of additional labor. If you can cope with the foundation with your own hands alone, then at least two will be required to lay the roof. To install the furnace, ventilation, chimney, an experienced stove-maker will be required, and a good carpenter will help to complete the interior decoration of the bath with natural wood.

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Do it yourself: how to make a foundation for a bath? Step-by-step instructions here.

A bathhouse is not such a responsible building as a residential building, for example, therefore many decide to install it on their own. Of course, this requires some building knowledge, without which even a simple bathhouse will not be built at all or will not stand idle for a long time.

But a construction university for such a task is still not needed. The most difficult, responsible and expensive in the bathhouse is the foundation. About how to do without outside help when laying it, how to do it, fill it and it will be discussed in this article.

The foundation under the bathhouse with your own hands: what will its walls be of?

The load on the future foundation depends on the material of the walls. We believe that if the owner of the site decided to build on his own, then he will prefer the cheapest option. The column foundation will be the cheapest for the bath, which does not fit only brick and those soils that push and tilt the pillars directly in the ground - these are weak soils (peat bogs, for example) or heavily downhill (clay). Let's first figure out what foundation is suitable for a particular bath, and then there will be instructions for their laying.

For a bath from a felling, a bar

Any foundation is suitable for a bathhouse from a log house and a barbecause wood is not the hardest material. You can supply both tape, and columnar, and plate as necessary.

We have a whole article in which the criteria for choosing the best foundation for a bath from a timber or a log are examined in detail.

Foundation for a bath of blocks, do-it-yourself bricks

If the bath is supposed to be built from blocks (and the foam block and brick belong to this category), then the main difference between them will be the mass of a cubic meter. Say popular cellular concrete is the lightest, cinder blocks are much heavier, and brick follows the cinder block by weight. Therefore, the foundation for a bath of foam blocks should not only reckon with the features of the soil, but also with the weight of the future structure.

If there is no desire to spend time and energy on additional work (construction of trowels, laying of strapping beams), then it is better to prefer a strip foundation - simple and reliable. Incidentally, it is suitable for both light and heavy blocks. A brick bath can be placed on a strip, slab and pile foundations.

The foundation for a do-it-yourself foam concrete bathhouse

The foam block is a demanding material in its own way (to the same waterproofing), but it has the least complaints regarding the foundation. A shallow strip or column foundation is suitable for him.with which the owner of the site will fully cope with his comrades. The instructions, as promised, are given below.We also recommend that you read the article about the foundations of foam block baths - types, depth and other details.

The foundation for a do-it-yourself frame bath

A frame bath is another example of a lightweight material for walls, which includes everything that has been said about foam blocks. The choice of foundation for a frame bath can be complicated by problematic soil, but in simple cases, when it comes to independent construction of the bath, it will be the same tape or columnar.

Frame sauna on concrete posts

DIY foundation for a bath: step-by-step instructions for its various types

Different types of foundations imply different technologies for their foundation. Let's consider each of them.

We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following nuances of bath foundations:

Do-it-yourself ribbon foundation for a bath

Tape can be shallow and with full depth. The difference between them is usually in the depth of freezing of the soil. That is, the sole of the first is 20 cm below the level of the fertile layer, and the second is the same 20 cm below the level of freezing in the area.

1. Begin with geological exploration plot. Today, geologists also offer inexpensive (partial) options. From their conclusions depends on whether it is possible to make a shallow foundation. They will give the go-ahead if the soil is dry, inactive, with a small depth of freezing.
2. Markup. Before embarking on it, you first need to clean the area and remove the fertile soil layer on the building site. Add to the cost of the foundation of the work of the bulldozer, if the bumps are large. The result should be a flat area, the height difference of which is checked by the hydraulic level.
   • After that, using theodolite or the simplest knowledge of geometry, inner contour future bath. The lines are formed by building threads stretched between the pegs. Before moving to the outer contour, it is necessary to verify the lengths of the diagonals - they should be equal.
   • Second (external) the outline is marked by the width of the foundation, which is equal to the thickness of future walls plus 10 cm.
   • Last tagged internal partitions and foundation for the stove (if you decide to put a stone or iron stove).
3. Trench. When digging a trench, you need to add 10 cm on each side - this is an increase for the future formwork. Of course, it’s easy to dig out the shallow foundation yourself, and with a considerable depth of laying, you may need a special technique that you have to hire. Add another 20 cm to the sand cushion. Incidentally, it is not worth saving on it; it is important for the future stability of the foundation.
4. Formwork. Usually it is made of edged boards, which, by the way, after disassembly, can be used to create a roof battens or find another application. Instead of edged boards, it is permissible to use moisture-proof plywood.

The formwork is installed directly on the site. The minimum height of its walls above ground level is 30 cm. Try to hammer nails in one direction - this will facilitate later analysis of the structure. And in order for the formwork to stand motionless, you still need to make struts for the opposite shields.

Inside it is necessary to lay polyethylene and fix it on the sides of the formwork with a stapler.

5. Reinforcement. For it, steel rods with a diameter of 12 mm and preferably with an anti-corrosion coating are used. First of all, reinforcement rods are vertically driven into the bottom of the trench, which should be 5 cm below the formwork boards. They are driven in two rows, with a pitch of 50 cm and an indent from each side of 5 cm.

Horizontal rods are placed next, but they should not touch the bottom. The height above the bottom of the trench is 7-10 cm. For this, bricks are temporarily placed under them. Then the vertical and horizontal rods are connected by knitting wire.

The second row of horizontal rods should be 6-8 cm below the edge of the future foundation. For fastening, knitting wire is again used. (welding is not recommended).

6. Pouring. In most cases, it is recommended to take cement M-500. In winter, it is better not to fill the strip foundation, but if there is no other option, then you will have to add plasticizers to the concrete (liquid soap or dishwashing detergent in the amount of 200 ml per one mixer mixer), and then take care of the warming of the hardening concrete.

Solution recipe: cement (1 part), sand (3 parts), gravel medium and small (5 parts). Crushed stone fractions: 60-70% medium and 40-30% small.

Mix the ingredients dry first, then add water in an amount of 0.5 of the proportion of cement.

It is advisable to carry out the filling in one go. If it is not possible, then at least 20 cm of the solution should be poured.

Next stage - air forcing. To do this, bayonet (pierce with a piece of reinforcement) the solution and tap on the walls of the formwork. But it’s better to use a construction vibrator.

The formwork is removed after 3-7 days, and then the foundation is left for 3 weeks for final solidification. In the heat it needs to be watered with water 2-3 times a day and covered from the sun, in cold or rain - covered with a film. 28 days after pouring, the strip foundation for the bath will be ready for the erection of walls.

A dry foundation is needed immediately waterproof, for example, with bituminous mastic and roofing material.

DIY column foundation for a bath

A self-made columnar foundation for a bath can be of three types:

Let's start with the first one.

Pillars plunge into the ground one third or half of the depth to which the soil freezes. This is permissible only if it is placed on soils not prone to heaving and inactive, for example, on sand and gravel soil.

1. Cleaning the area and leveling the development spot. This item is the same as the tape (see above).

2. Markup. Pillars must be placed at maximum load points and evenly distributed between these points. Before starting the layout of the site, we draw something like this plan:

Then we transfer our plan to the site using building threads and pegs.

3. Excavation. An individual hole is dug under each pillar. You can work not only with a shovel, but also with a manual cone-shaped drill, which gives smooth edges. The hole in the ground will be larger than the diameter of the column - at least 10 cm, but everything is determined by the convenience of the future laying of pillars, in particular for brick, the space expands for the convenience of masonry. Walls should be made with slopes, expanding upward. Consider the following typical pillar sizes from different materials:

• brick or stone - 50x50 cm
• rubble stone - 60x60 cm
• asbestos cement pipe - 20 cm diameter,
• reinforced concrete support - 30-40 cm diameter,
• tree - 20 cm diameter.

The depth of the pit should be increased by the height of the sand-gravel pillow, which is usually 20 cm. The pillow should be shed with water and rammed before installing the pillars.

4. Post installation. Only one will be shown here. option with filling reinforced concrete pillar. In order to get acquainted with the other options, follow the link to the article, which provides more detailed information.

So, first, in the finished hole with a pillow is placed formwork, which can be made from a board of 40x150 mm, or from moisture-proof plywood.

The formwork is placed frame from rods 12-14 mm in diameter. Horizontal jumpers are made in increments of 20 cm. The height of the reinforcement above the grillage is 10 cm or more. For knitting fittings use a 6 mm wire.

Finally, concrete is poured. Do not fill it immediately, it is better in portions of 15-20 cm, followed by tamping of each layer.

5. Waterproofing. When the concrete hardens, it should be waterproofed with bitumen mastic and roofing felt.

6. Grillage. In the event that reinforced concrete beams will be used, the places of their joints should be strengthened additionally by welding the reinforcement trimmings.

Next, a new formwork is installed, a frame is placed in it and everything is poured with concrete M-300.

Ready grillage also needs waterproofing.

The space between the pillars is sealed with a blockage (brick or other wall).

The difference between this foundation and the previous one consists only in how deep the well is drilled under the future pillar. When fully laid for a columnar foundation, this is the depth of freezing of the soil plus 40 cm. And the technological steps do not differ from those described for shallow.

You can drill wells using a hand drill, a gas drill, or by hiring special equipment. It is up to the owner.

In this case, it is better to formwork in concrete pipes or plastic, if the required diameter is found. The well is drilled 10 cm wider than the casing.

1. First, the casing is inserted into the finished hole, the verticality of which you need to check.

2. Then, fittings are already placed in the pipe so that there is another 5 cm to the pipe walls.

3. The poured concrete should be thinner than for tape and contain more cement (2 shares instead of 1).

4. After pouring, it is worth using a construction vibrator to drive air out of concrete.

5. The space between the pipe and the walls of the borehole is covered with earth in layers and is rammed.

6. For two weeks, the concrete hardens, then the piles are aligned with a grinder (it must cut reinforcement too)

Pile foundation under the bathhouse with your own hands is also quite strong, in fact, it can be considered a kind of columnar. Only it is usually laid to a greater depth than the pillars - it is from 3 to 12 meters. The material of the piles may also be different.

1. To lay the pile-screw foundation yourself, you need go through the same stages of preparationas for other species - clean and level the territory, mark the points where the piles will be laid.
2. After that, in order to facilitate screwing the piles into the ground, digging leader holes to a depth of 15 cm with a diameter of 2-3 cm more than the blades.
3. Holes are drilled in piles to insert the rods. After the rods are inserted, they become a rotary handle, like a corkscrew.
4. Screw in the pile follows with a constant check of verticality. The depth of immersion should be below the level of freezing of the soil and reach the bearing layer.
5. When all piles are screwed, you should outline a single level of them trimming. Piles are cut off by a grinder.
6. After that, to the tops of the piles welded metal plates up to 1 cm thick, to which the grillage will be attached.
7. The grillage can be welded or screwed bolts to the “hats” of piles.

1. Clearing and leveling the territory. Removing fertile soil from a development spot.

2. Markup. Having outlined the dimensions of the future bath with construction thread and pegs, add 0.5-1 meter on each side - these will be the dimensions of the pit.

3. Sand and gravel pillow it is poured to the bottom of the pit with a layer of 15 to 30 cm, leveled, spilled with water and rammed.

4. Formwork. Removable formwork is done in the same way as for a strip foundation, but it is possible to make non-removable - from fiberboard plates. In this case, the plates are fastened with ties and corners. Like removable formwork, this one also needs to be strengthened by struts.

5. Waterproofing. Polyethylene or geotextiles are placed on a sand cushion. You can do with roofing material. It is important to make the joints of the material for waterproofing with a good overlap and close the formwork with them too.

6. Reinforcement. Small baths can be reinforced with a mesh made of 8-10 mm reinforcement. The mesh pitch is 10-15 cm. For heavier buildings, more durable reinforcement is needed - 12-14 mm. The same grid is made from it. With a large thickness of the foundation, you can reinforce several times.

7. Pouring. Better to fill in at a time. Pouring slowly, evenly. Vibrator compaction is mandatory.

In a month and a half, the foundation will be ready for the next stages of construction.But in the first weeks it needs to be watered with water so that the stove does not crack when dried.

The stove in the bathhouse also needs a solid foundation, and if the foundation of the bathhouse is not stovetop, then you need to think about a small foundation for the stove. However, there is a big difference whether your stove will be iron or brick. This is the difference in weight. Iron weighs a little - 300 pounds, for example. And brick - can weigh an order of magnitude more. Therefore, there is a rule: Strong foundations are needed for furnaces weighing more than 750 kg.

To calculate the weight of a brick furnace without mortar, you need to multiply the weight of a cubic meter of brick by the number of cubic meters:

1350 * V, where V is the volume in cubes.

Or, if it's easier, multiply the weight of one brick by their number. It is also necessary to add in excess of 40-50% per solution, and the weight of the furnace will be obtained.

There are different options for the implementation of the foundation under the oven with your own hands. In order not to talk about this too briefly, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with an article entirely devoted to this topic.

How to fill the foundation under the bath with your own hands

Above a couple of times we have already talked about all the stages of the work that precedes, accompanies the pouring and follows it. If this information was not enough, we recommend that you read a separate article in which filling is considered in detail.

DIY bath without foundation

Yes, there are those too. Such a bath can be put on rocky ground without any risk. In all other cases, in the definition of “without” there is some guile - there seems to be no foundation, but will have to strengthen the foundation. In similar quality can be used:

In the first case clay it fills trenches, as for a strip foundation, becoming a support for the walls.

For crushed stone you need to dig a pit and drainage trenches that divert water. But in the end, a reasonably strong and dry base is obtained, because roofing material or other waterproofing agent is placed on top of the gravel.

Sand and gravel form the very pillow that is laid under the foundation, but here it dispenses with the latter. It is made in the same way as from crushed stone.

Boulders - a wonderful foundation. But you have to dig a pit. Stones are laid out on its walls and fastened with cement mortar. Small stones are poured between the walls. A grillage is made on top.

[content-egg module = GdeSlon template = compare]

How to build a foundation for a bath

The maximum strength and stability of any building can be achieved only with a full foundation. No matter how the walls of the bath will be built, even a simple frame bath requires a foundation that holds the frame of the building securely. The more difficult the soil and the heavier the blocks, the deeper and wider the foundation of the foundation of the bath.

What foundation to choose for a bath

The simpler the design of the bath, the easier it is to solve the problem of how to build a foundation for the bath. For a small bath 3x4 or 4x5 m, the foundation built in two meters deep will be clearly excessive in strength and stability. A shallow concrete tape of 20 cm may not keep the design of the bath in balance. How to make a foundation for a bath right? A competent choice of sizes is determined by the type of soil and the load from the weight of the walls and the roof of the bath on a concrete tape. For different types and sizes of the bath, you can build a foundation using a typical solution:

In a bathhouse, as in any building, construction begins with the selection of a project and the attachment of a drawing made on the ground. This procedure allows you to determine how much the calculation of the bath coincides with the future dimensions on the site. After clarifying the place and orientation, they begin to study the composition of the soil on which it is supposed to build a bath.

This will help to drain from the base and open up near-surface groundwater sources, if any.Based on the results of the reconnaissance, they make a decision about the construction of the foundation for the construction, associate it with the building design and decide how to make the foundation for the bath easier, cheaper and faster.

The influence of soil and material of the walls of the bath on the design and dimensions of the foundation

Analysis of the composition of the soil at different depths is done according to standard methods by washing the samples with water. This approach is justified if you need to build a strong foundation for a three-story cottage, for a simple bath it will be enough to distinguish sandy loam and sand from clay with loam or rock.

Stony soils with a large number of fragments of stone of different fractions have the best bearing capacity. Most often, such soils are found at the places where basalt, limestone, chalk and calcite rocks come to the surface. Such a soil can easily withstand a load of 4-5 kg ​​/ cm 2. Next in strength are coarse-grained sands, they will withstand up to 3 kg / cm 2. The most common and least persistent are small loamy sand, clay and loam, able to withstand pressure up to a maximum of 2 kg / cm 2.

Choosing which foundation to build better

After the calculations, it is necessary to study the depth of soil freezing and the degree of water saturation. Both parameters are important for determining the depth at which the foundation needs to be built. If the supporting surface of the concrete frame is at a depth of freezing, and the soil is saturated with moisture, with the onset of frost, the wet rock will freeze and expand. In this case, a buoyant force will act on individual parts of the foundation frame. The magnitude of this force depends on the specific conditions, and in some cases can lead to serious damage to the building of the bath.

The simplest solution for waterlogged soils will be to use a pile or frame-pile type of foundation for a bath.

The pile foundation for the bath has certain advantages:

In addition, the pile option allows you to simply choose a place and lay out, cast the foundation under the heavy brick stove of the steam room of the bathhouse. The external walls of the concrete base cast under the furnace must be carefully waterproofed with a double layer of roofing material and mastic. The pile structure creates additional conditions for condensation to form on a concrete surface blown from all sides of the furnace support.

The marking of the installation points of the piles is carried out so that the piles are located at a distance of 90 cm - 110 cm under the walls and 100-150 cm inside the perimeter of the walls. Each pile is screwed to the depth of freezing of the soil plus 20 cm. The pile head is poured with concrete and cut off. After installing all the piles, the height of the supports above the ground is aligned horizontally with a cutter. The surface of the supports is carefully treated with waterproofing.

On the prepared supports, a frame of metal profile, channel or wooden beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm is laid. The made frame is sewn up with a board on which a layer of waterproofing and thermal insulation is laid. The foundation is ready, you can build a bathhouse. Most often, these types of pile foundations are used for building saunas made of timber, logs, prefabricated frame baths, but you can build a building from aerated concrete, arbolite stone, hollow ceramic bricks.

A kind of pile foundation is a columnar foundation.In this case, a sand and gravel mixture is poured around the steel pipe, poured with resin and a square section support is laid out from the brick. Such a column significantly increases the rigidity of the support of the bath. Sometimes steel tubular piles are concreted with an external casting of a cement-sand mixture. In this case, for each pipe, it is necessary to make the formwork and pour it with cement mortar.

Strip version of the foundation

The most simple and common is considered to be a strip foundation. To build a strip foundation, you need to correctly markup using a cord and pegs on all sides of the future frame. The width of the foundation tape is obtained by calculation, depending on the weight of the building. For a small bath, the width of the tape is taken in the size of a brick. So build cheaper and reduce concrete consumption. In this case, the lower part of the formwork reinforced with steel reinforcement is poured with concrete mortar. The thickness of the casting should be at least 30 cm. The rest of the trench is laid out either from rubble stone or from old ceramic bricks.

When marking, the width of the trench under the foundation is taken 10-15 cm wider than the estimated tape size. The depth of the trench for central Russia can be taken 90-120 cm. If the bath is on a hill, you can not do drainage for groundwater at the base of the foundation. Otherwise, it is necessary to lay a perforated plastic pipe with a small gradient at the bottom of the trench so that all groundwater flows along the drainage in the direction of the catchment, which is usually located on the north side of the building.

A mixture of fine gravel and sand is poured onto the surface of the drainage pipe and a layer of geotextile is laid. The laid mixture must be carefully aligned in height with a shovel and manual tamper. If you do not use a pipe, a layer of sand, geotextile fabric and large gravel are used as drainage. On top of the laid drainage, pieces of roofing material are cut out and pasted with mastic.

The next step is to install a wooden formwork. Most often, prefabricated prefabricated boards from a 20-30 mm board are used. The formwork is installed in the trench and fixed using struts and struts. The total thickness of the poured concrete under the foundation in the bath is at least 50 cm for weak clay and loamy soils. For stony ground, you can use the lightweight version with a pillow thickness of 20 cm and a brick trim protruding above the ground base. On the second or third day after the concrete has set, the formwork can be removed and waterproofed on the foundation surface.

The foundation for the furnace needs to be built in the form of a separate frame. The easiest way is to cast into a shallow trench a concrete slab filled with rubble stone, preferably large fragments, parts. A very good result is obtained when using an electric concrete compactor. 15-20 minutes of processing the poured mortar with gravel allows you to get very strong concrete even without the use of reinforcement. If desired, tape concrete can be processed in this way. But the work is quite laborious, so it’s easier and cheaper to build with the installation of fittings.

Slab foundation

In some cases, the features of the location of the bath, the nature of the soil, the presence of subsoil water do not make it possible to build a full strip foundation. In these cases, you can build a bath on the foundation in the form of a plate. The depth of such a foundation is very small, so the building of the bath will be quite stable and will not cause the rise of groundwater to the surface.

To form a solid foundation slab, it is necessary to build a support contour along the perimeter of the bath walls. A pit breaks out to a depth of 50-60 cm, which is sprinkled with gravel at least 15 cm thick. A layer of gravel is compacted with a manual or electric rammer.An intermediate layer of fine screening 3-4 cm thick is laid on the prepared crushed stone layer. Next, a waterproofing layer is laid and poured with concrete mortar. Instead of wooden formwork, the walls are laid with bricks. As a rule, a concrete slab is raised above the ground to a height of no more than half a brick due to the high consumption of cement mortar.

Such a foundation is very strong and can easily withstand the load of the weight of the walls of the heaviest rubble masonry, and it is not difficult to build it. Due to the high cost and high consumption of building materials, a stove for a bath is used in exceptional cases.

Conclusion

The light design of the bath allows you to build a building with minimal cost for foundation work. Any pouring of concrete in a strip foundation or in a tile foundation requires a break in the work for at least a month until the final set of strength. Therefore, it is best to build a bathhouse on a foundation of large-sized rubble stones in a solution with a setting accelerator.

How to build a foundation for a bath The maximum strength and stability of any building can be achieved only with a full foundation. No matter how the walls are built

How to make a foundation for a bath

It is unlikely that one can meet such an owner of a land plot who would not dream of his own bathhouse. The realization of this dream begins with laying the foundation for future construction. Without it, a reliable and long-term structure will not work. Therefore, the question of whether a foundation is needed for a bath should not even arise.

The base under the bath

Choosing the type of foundation

We will begin the work by determining what type of foundation suits us. It should be selected according to one of two criteria: by the type of soil and by the type used for the construction of the bathhouse building materials.

The type of soil can be determined as follows. In the place where the construction is planned, you need to dig a hole at least half a meter deep.

Then you need to carefully study the structure of the soil and draw the appropriate conclusions:

if the soil is garden, forest or liquefied land, then it is worth giving preference to a strip foundation. It will be located on a sand pillow,

Let's say you found coarse sand, small gravel or clay - in this case, the optimal foundation for the bath is a strip or column base,

best of all, if fine sand, quartz or rocky rocks appear on the section of the recess - this means that you can use any kind of foundation.

No less important is the material from which you are going to build the bath:

Foundation process

Consider the process of creating a foundation for a bathhouse using an example of a strip structure. This is not the easiest foundation for a bath, but for some cases only it is suitable. So, let's start in order.

The first step from which our work will begin is to mark the place where this product will be located. Professionals do this with the help of a special device - theodolite.

But we can do without it and adopt another, simpler way. It is associated with the use of a cord and peg.

Advice! Before starting this work, carefully prepare the future construction site. Remove all rubbish from it, cut down the bush and mow the grass. If necessary, level the surface. These measures will help you facilitate and speed up your entire future workflow.

The markup is carried out as follows:

1. we outline the line, which will be one of the sides of the foundation. On its edges we install stakes or trimming reinforcement. Pull the cord between them
2. from the edges of this segment we measure two equal lines running at an angle of 90 °. These will be the transverse sides of our structure. Between them we also pull the twine
3. then indent and again set the pegs and pull the cord. This indent defines the internal size of the base. If in the future it is planned to install a wooden log house, then the thickness of the foundation for the bath should be 40 centimeters. For walls of foam blocks or bricks, a base equal to 50 centimeters in cross section will be required,
4. mark the location of the internal partitions of the building: they also need a foundation.

Advice! When marking the sides, keep in mind that the inner spacing should be 20 centimeters wider than the future foundation. This is due to the fact that in the prepared recesses there should be enough space to place the formwork.

Upon completion of this process, check the correct layout. To do this, measure the diagonals of the resulting rectangles.

Inside one shape, the diagonals must be equal. Otherwise, you need to check all the calculations and rearrange the stakes in the right place, so that the foundation for the bathhouse eventually gets the correct shape.

Having marked the site, proceed to digging trenches. It should be borne in mind that any land has differences in height.

Therefore, first, using the water level, we determine the lower point of the construction site. It is from her that the depth of the tape structure will be calculated.

The value of this parameter depends on the type of soil:

Having made the recesses, you need to create a sand cushion in them. To do this, pour a layer of sand with a thickness of 15 centimeters into the resulting ditches. It must be well leveled, watered and tamped.

To create a simple foundation for a simple bath will require formwork. It can be made from boards or thick plywood.

You can assemble this design directly at the construction site. Initially, individual shields are made. Then they are placed in trenches and connected to each other.

To do this, struts are beaten on the inside, and struts are fixed on the outside. These elements will help the formwork to maintain the desired shape after pouring concrete.

Advice! To prevent concrete from leaking through the cracks in the formwork and use polyethylene to prevent deformation of the boards. It needs to be fixed with the help of a construction stapler on the inside of wooden shields.

We also note the following point. If the manufacture of the foundation for the bath involves the use of ready-made concrete blocks, then, of course, no formwork will be required for them.

In the photo - reinforcement

The next step is to reinforce our future design. It is best to use rods with a thickness of 1.2 centimeters.

Instructions for this process will be as follows:

1. drive into the ground at an angle of 90 degrees 2 rows of rods,
2. place reinforcement segments at the bottom of the trench and tie them to the posts with wire,
3. we mount the upper horizontal rows of reinforcement - we also do this using wire,
4. we fasten the transverse jumpers - while the cell size of the resulting lattice should be equal to 30-35 centimeters.As for the distance from the reinforcement to the edges of the foundation, then it should be left at least 5 centimeters.

The strip base, like many other types of foundations for a bath, requires waterproofing. It can be performed in one of two ways: by pasting or using special additives to concrete.

The first option involves laying a layer of roofing material at the bottom of the structure and then coating the resulting foundation with mastic. The second method involves adding a special substance to the concrete solution, which will make the entire structure waterproofed. We recommend that you use this option because it is less labor intensive.

Formwork with concrete mortar poured into it

In the case of a strip base, the concrete grade for the foundation of the bath should be at least m400. The use of a lower brand is not allowed, since we are dealing with a supporting structure.

The composition of the mixture should be as follows:

The components are mixed, and water is added to them, after which the solution is brought to the desired consistency. Pour the mixture in layers of 20 centimeters each.

Advice! To remove air voids from concrete, after pouring it must be pierced with a stick in different places. To achieve the best effect, it is better to use a construction vibrator.

After pouring, such foundations for baths should dry for at least three weeks. This period is necessary in order for the product to gain the necessary strength.

In hot weather, the concrete surface must be periodically moistened with water. This measure will avoid the appearance of cracks on the surface of concrete.

Having decided to make the foundation for the bath, you must first determine the type of future design. The most common types of foundation for a bathhouse are strip and columnar (find out here which is the best foundation for a bathhouse to choose).

The choice of a particular variety depends on the type of soil and building material that will be used to create the bathhouse. You can make the foundation with your own hands. The above recommendations will help you with this.

In addition to studying them, it will be very useful for you to familiarize yourself with the video file posted on this page. The video in this article will provide additional information that will help create the right foundation for the bath.

Do you need a foundation for a bath: types, concrete grade, thickness, correct, optimal, simplest, do-it-yourself video production manual, photo and price

Laying the foundation for the bath

A bathhouse is a light and small structure, so it will not be difficult to make a foundation for it with your own hands. It is only necessary to take into account the features of the functioning of the structure - high humidity inside, large temperature differences.

Due to the low requirements for bearing capacity and stiffness of the support, the foundation for the bath can be built in almost any design:

The first option is well suited for soils with low density and low bearing capacity. An additional plus is that you do not need to think about a separate support for the furnace or boiler.

However, this type is characterized by a large consumption of materials. It is also worth keeping in mind that you will have to create high-quality thermal insulation between the stove and the steam room, because such an impressive amount of concrete will warm up for a long time.

The strip foundation is also quite simple to lay, it will require less concrete, but more wood for formwork. It also requires high-quality thermal insulation.

Columnar is somewhat more difficult to erect, but provides a reliable and stable base for the bath with minimal material consumption.

If the soil is mobile, if it is not possible to make an accurate calculation of the load, then you can create a column-grillage, which will work well even with distortions and movements of the soil.

Pile based on screw supports - the easiest, cheapest, quickly erected.An important advantage is the ability to bookmark even on steep slopes without prior alignment. But its service life is less.

Tile and strip base

The slab foundation under the bathhouse with your own hands is done quite simply.

1. First, you need to clear the site, level it, remove the upper fertile soil layer.
2. Since the stove covers the entire space under the building, engineering communications should be laid in advance: to bring sewage, water, electricity (the latter is not necessary, because the wiring can also be connected "by air").
3. Sand is poured at the bottom of the pit, which levels the area, and also performs a compensating function when the soil is heaving. It should be tamped.

A wooden formwork is installed around the perimeter.

To lay communications before building the foundation itself, in this case there is no need. This can be done later, undermining under a concrete tape. If a shallow tape is made, then immediately it is necessary to create support for the furnace, to make a single foundation.

This is necessary so that in case of soil movements the furnace or boiler moves with the bathhouse.

Pillars and grillage

The column foundation is one of the least material intensive. In any case - from concrete structures. However, this applies only to the support without concrete strapping. This design is suitable for light wooden baths, which are less afraid of distortions, displacements of poles.

For a stone or brick bath, you will need to create a grillage, which significantly increases the consumption of materials.

Such an inexpensive foundation for a bath with your own hands can be done quite simply and quickly.

First, the area is cleaned and leveled. It is desirable, but not necessary to remove the fertile layer of soil.

It is important to mark up correctly. The supports should be located at the corners of the building, at the joints of the walls and under the longest spans.

You can immediately lay the supports for the furnace.

If it is necessary to make concrete piping, then after the concrete has hardened, a new formwork is mounted, a reinforcing belt is laid, which is tied with metal in the columns, after which filling is performed. It is best to make an increased grillage, since it is least affected by soil heaving.

Screw piles

This is the fastest and cheapest option, but it is rarely installed with your own hands, because in most cases screw supports are sold by companies that provide installation services.

Nevertheless, if you wish, you can purchase supports and perform styling yourself. One has only to be prepared that 2-3 people will need help.

How to make a foundation for a bath from piles:

1. The site is cleaned up, there is no need to level and remove the sod.
2. Markup is being done. The bearing capacity of one support is small, so they are usually installed under the entire area of ​​the building.
3. A small hole is made in the place of placement of the pile - a guide.
4. The support is mounted and screwed in neatly. It is important to ensure that the pile becomes vertically, evenly.

When all supports are screwed in, they are trimmed at the same level.

Attention! For the calculation of consumables, there are ready-made reference tables. In addition to the main components, from them you can find out the amount of waterproofing needed, etc. So, according to the reference data, the foundation for a 6x6 bath requires the installation of a concrete strip 32 m long.

Pillars as a base under the bath

Another common option is the columnar foundation for the bath. It is suitable for clay soils and for soils characterized by a low level of groundwater. It is best to erect walls on it from timber or logs.

The pillar foundation is considered the most economical of all foundations and the most pre-fabricated. It can also be built independently. This will require:

Before you make the foundation for the bath, you need to prepare the necessary tools and equipment, calculate the material costs. If there are no construction skills, then it is better to entrust this business to professionals.

The foundation for a bath with your own hands is a logical cost savings. The foundation for the bathhouse, is built according to certain rules.